These were installed a couple of years ago and were a nice mod to my 2001 Mustang GT. Really felt a nice set-of-the-pants in acceleration, especially on the highway at high speeds. Also made a cool whistle sound (almost turbo-like) as it sucked in air when the throttle first opens.
The throttle body and plenum were both made by Dragon Performance. The product is pricey but one of the best quality stuff out there for the Stang. And yes, I know the engine is dirty. I have since had it shampooed and now it’s so shiny!
You can also partially see my strut tower bar by Kenney Brown Performance, one of the premier manufacturers of Mustang components.
Posted on February 15th, 2007 by Leo
Filed under: Shooting Gallery
Do you have a cold air intake on that, like a K&N. Every car I have put that on, makes the whistle.
Yeah, one of the first mods I made was a K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit, which is a cold air intake package. Although you could hear the air being sucked in, especially at start-up, the whistle didn’t occur until the large throttle body was installed. Sounds cool though, some people think I have a supercharger.
I have a cold air intake and throttle body spacer on my Olds Bravada. Also added slotted and drilled brakes. Great for towing my band equipment around with.
Slotted rotors are nice but cross-drilled have a tendency to warp under high heat exposed to moisture. Only really useful in racing situations where you’ve got a nice supply of them
Both options tend to wear down the brake pads faster too.
Other than squeaking a bit, they seem to work great.
Looks good. What other mods do you have on the car, and have you had it dyno-tuned?
Bullitt package, K&N FIPK, Dragon Performance 75mm TB and Plenum, Bassani X-pipe no cats and Bassani Cat-back exhaust, Kenny Brown suspension performance kit (springs, double-cross subframe connectors, 4-point lower chassis brace, tower strut bar), Saleen short-throw shifter, Spec clutch and rolling on Nitto 555 Xtreme rubbers.
Gotta nice Alpine 7 inch LCD monitor in-dash head unit with dvd player and 6-disc cd/MP3 changer blaring on JL audio speakers and a 12 inch Alpine type-R woofer, powered by 2 Alpine V-power amps.
it’s my baby, will be hard to let it go.
has not been dyno tuned
Leo, You posted that cross drilled rotors warp under heat and are only good in race applications, where as the slotted ones were “nice”..
Just question your source of info? Porshe, BMW to name a few have them used as OEM parts… not slotted and drilled, just drilled. This is the only place I have ever read they are only good for race applications. slotted rotors.. yes, as they shave your pads everytime you brake for consistant pad grip… and are usually drilled to facilitate heat distribution.
Drilled rotors do not wear down your pads as you usually will have a tendancy to buy better pads if you actually have the HP to facilitate the need for them.
Not to dis you on your blog… but you may want to read up on them as if you have a mis-understanding of the difference, you may actually be looking at them down the road when you have the preformance that demands the stopping power.
(800 HP twin turbo 2006 mustang GT.. With drilled rotors and 6 piston calipers;)
Dan, youre a retard. They only have drilled rotors on those cars because they are street cars, do your research. Any really high performance application is going to actually be a slotted rotor or even a solid rotor, the reasoning is for durability, the drilled rotors crack and can actually more or less explode once they have cracked. Also, warping is an issue over along period of heat cycles, but not as dominant of a problem as cracking.